Sunday 21st August 2011
Reserva Natural Atitlan, Panajachel This morning we took a tuk-tuk for the short drive out of the town of Panajachel to the nature reserve on the western outskirts, at first admiring the splendid views of Lake Atitlan, but as we came round one corner, we were suddenly greeted by the sight of an enormous green concrete hotel towering above the trees on the shore. One can only hope that no more similar buildings will be allowed to defile the beauties of this unique lake. After a slight panic as we both found that we had failed to bring sufficient cash to pay for entry into the reserve, we were relieved to find that Visa cards were accepted – and luckily Jacqueline had brought hers along. We asked at the reception desk for permission to use the butterfly net for identification purposes, which prompted a phone call to the owner of the reserve, with whom I then had a long conversation. He was totally enthusiastic about my journey in the footsteps of my great grandfather, and we have agreed to meet on Tuesday to discuss the possibility of designing some interpretation boards within the reserve describing the journeys of GCC in Guatemala. This sounds an excellent plan!
We then walked the trails in this extremely well laid out reserve, which is a former coffee plantation that is now being allowed to revert to forest. Our route took us over bridges suspended over gorges, past a cascading waterfall and along some canopy walkways. At one point I thought I had spotted a huge bird sailing above the trees, but it turned out to be an adventurous tourist speeding across the sky suspended from a zip-line!
There were not huge numbers of butterflies within the forest itself, but in the open areas near the entrance we were able to add a number of interesting species to the list…..as well as having one of the rescued spider monkeys that live here jump onto our table at lunch, lick the plate on which we had had nachos and melted cheese, and knock over the milk which was intended to go in my coffee!
I have just looked at my great grandfather’s diary, and I see that he visited this very spot, then known as the Finca Buenaventura, on Wednesday 29th December, 1880. I think he would be pleased to know that so much of the forest cover here is still intact, and that concerned people are working hard to conserve, and even increase it.